Spring has come to Zagreb, and with it, a new host family.
By now, most of you probably know I am living with the Mirić family, consisting of Mladen, (host father) Milica (host mother) and Mirela, (host sister) age 11. It was more difficult then I could have anticipated to leave the Tuškans, thought less difficult then I imagined to adapt to a new living situation. Being as I have lived in Zagreb for five months (and counting) and have a relative grasp on the language, nothing is as difficult as it was in September.
To come into a second family is not as daunting as a task the second time around. My new family is a very traditional Croatian family-both of my parents come from a tiny village called Gospić which is still very much a village.
The Mirić's have been wonderful about adapting to my non red-eating meat habits, my host mother jokes about being on a chicken and fish diet for the next five months. Both the Mirić's are great cooks (I am starting to see everyone in Croatia is a whiz in the kitchen) They are constantly concerned with the amount of food I have or have not consumed, in an endearing way of course. Luckily we just learned the past tense in my Croatian class so I can say, jela sam (I ate!)
Other new developments:
1. On April 18th my Dad and sister will be coming to Zagreb! It is impossible for me to convey the breadth of my excitement.
2. I was on Croatian National T.V.! It sounds much more thrilling then it was. The program was about school systems in comparison to Croatia's school systems-which were more challenging. Sort of a trick question, because one can absolutely not generalize about schools in America since they differ so dramatically from state to state and town to town. Basically I talked about how my high school put the emphasis on learning how to learn, as opposed to memorizing facts, which is the focus here. (Granted, I did my fair share of busy-work, but that is another story.)
3. My cousin Amy is in Rome studying, so I am planning a trip for the beginning of March.
The language is speeding up for me, partially since my host dad doesn't speak English, so I don't feel self conscious about completely botching a sentence. I called home the other afternoon and we spoke entirely in Croatia. Quite a nice feeling.
Hoping everyone in the U.S. is well-
Much love from the Balkans.
utorak, 29. siječnja 2008.
utorak, 15. siječnja 2008.
Report
Here is my second official Rotary Report, it might be a bit repetitive, but could potentially be of some interest. Make sure to see the blog about Turkey below.
Rotary Report # 2
KELSEY A. LIEBENSON-MORSE
January 2008
1. How was the holiday season? How did it differ from what you are
used to back home? How is the weather?
My Holiday season in Croatia was perfectly lovely. I had three weeks off from school. I could not have asked for a better Christmas experience away from my own family. One realizes that the concept of the holidays boils down to being with people that you love and care about. This may not be your "blood family," but this is irrelevant. I missed my family, but no more then I always do.
Croatians are 98% Catholic, so Christmas is taken seriously. Since my first Host Mother is British, I had a stocking and fruit cake, making me feel right at home. Croatians have traditional meals they eat on Christmas Eve (fish) and Christmas Day. (turkey) Probably the only downside of all of this festivity is that I ate an astronomical amount of Christmas cookies. (Croatian Christmas cookies=unbelievable) We had a "Bijelo Božić," meaning a White Christmas. I was able to travel to Turkey the last week of my break, yet another culture and country to experience. I have switched host families, and am beginning to build relationships with a new family.
2. How is the language coming along? Do you think or dream in it
yet? Have you made new friends (natives or other exchange students)?
We suggest you concentrate more on the natives for the best exchange
experience.
Croatian continues to be a challenge. But, fear not, progress it being made. I can read signs, and understand the general gist of most conversations, especially among young people. I "read" the newspaper every day. I can say things such as, "I need," "I will," etc, along with form short, simple sentences. I am still at the rudimentary stages of learning a language, which is o.k. with me. The group of Croatians who I spend the most time with don't speak English too well, which is wonderful. They address me in Croatian, and if I don't understand, someone will translate for me. I can buy things at the store. For all intensive purposes, my Croatian is good enough to live, though not nearly good enough to have conversations about the state of the nation. These days, people do not immediately switch to English. Victory! I will continue to work on Croatian, building my vocabulary and practicing my pronunciation. Perhaps I will have a dream in Croatian sometime before June.
3. How often do you meet with your counselor? Have you presented
your program at Rotary yet? Have you done a program for other groups?
Are you receiving your allowance? Is it adequate for day to day
expenses?
I go to Rotary Meeting once a month. My counselor travels more often then not, so I don't see her on a regular basis. I have not presented to my Rotary yet. I receive 400 kuna a month, which works out to about 80 dollars a month-more then enough.
4. How is school going? What subjects are you studying? The same
ones you started with or have you changed subjects or levels in
subjects? Are you involved in activities outside of the classroom?
School. I have to be honest here and say that the tedium and boredom continues. I am not sure why I bring a bag to school. I am not sure I have written anything down. I am in the process of trying to switch to some sort of dance school, so maybe I can feel as though I am not wasting my time sitting in a classroom (reading-if you need some great books recommended, let me know) all day long. My teachers take no interest in me, in fact, I would be surprised if they knew my name. To be fair, part of my struggle is with the Croatian school system itself, it is rigid beyond belief. One comes into class, sits down, and listens to the teacher talk for 45 minutes. If you are lucky, you might get an oral exam. I must admit, I am disappointed with the way my school situation has worked out, but there is still time for adjustments to be made. My school does not offer any extra-curricular activities, but I continue to take ballet class four times a week. Hopefully by the end of January I will begin to do some English tutoring.
5. Would you say you are happy? How are you healthwise? If you have
had to use it, has your insurance worked?
Certainly, I am happy. Life in Zagreb is my life now. I know that the second half of exchange will melt away before I know it. I am trying my best to enjoy the luxurious life of being an exchange student. Never again in my life will I be able to travel with the ease and freedom that I have experienced this year. Health wise, no complaints. I still marvel at the fact that I haven't been hit by any crazy Croatian tram drivers, they seem to dislike the concept of stopping for pedestrians.
6. Do you think you were well prepared for your exchange year? What
should we have concentrated on in your orientations last year?
Above all, I think it is important for students to have no preconceived notions of how their exchange year is going to unfold. If you expect it to be a certain way, then you are setting yourself up for disaster. The reality is that your exchange year is beyond what you can imagine for yourself. Flexibility is key to survival.
FREE SPACE: (Comments, suggestions, joys, sorrows…..)
Joys: Walking across the River Sava at sunset. Becoming part of another family. Letters from home. Being teased, but more often, kissed, by my Croatian non-English speaking Grandfather. I could go on for pages...
Rotary Report # 2
KELSEY A. LIEBENSON-MORSE
January 2008
1. How was the holiday season? How did it differ from what you are
used to back home? How is the weather?
My Holiday season in Croatia was perfectly lovely. I had three weeks off from school. I could not have asked for a better Christmas experience away from my own family. One realizes that the concept of the holidays boils down to being with people that you love and care about. This may not be your "blood family," but this is irrelevant. I missed my family, but no more then I always do.
Croatians are 98% Catholic, so Christmas is taken seriously. Since my first Host Mother is British, I had a stocking and fruit cake, making me feel right at home. Croatians have traditional meals they eat on Christmas Eve (fish) and Christmas Day. (turkey) Probably the only downside of all of this festivity is that I ate an astronomical amount of Christmas cookies. (Croatian Christmas cookies=unbelievable) We had a "Bijelo Božić," meaning a White Christmas. I was able to travel to Turkey the last week of my break, yet another culture and country to experience. I have switched host families, and am beginning to build relationships with a new family.
2. How is the language coming along? Do you think or dream in it
yet? Have you made new friends (natives or other exchange students)?
We suggest you concentrate more on the natives for the best exchange
experience.
Croatian continues to be a challenge. But, fear not, progress it being made. I can read signs, and understand the general gist of most conversations, especially among young people. I "read" the newspaper every day. I can say things such as, "I need," "I will," etc, along with form short, simple sentences. I am still at the rudimentary stages of learning a language, which is o.k. with me. The group of Croatians who I spend the most time with don't speak English too well, which is wonderful. They address me in Croatian, and if I don't understand, someone will translate for me. I can buy things at the store. For all intensive purposes, my Croatian is good enough to live, though not nearly good enough to have conversations about the state of the nation. These days, people do not immediately switch to English. Victory! I will continue to work on Croatian, building my vocabulary and practicing my pronunciation. Perhaps I will have a dream in Croatian sometime before June.
3. How often do you meet with your counselor? Have you presented
your program at Rotary yet? Have you done a program for other groups?
Are you receiving your allowance? Is it adequate for day to day
expenses?
I go to Rotary Meeting once a month. My counselor travels more often then not, so I don't see her on a regular basis. I have not presented to my Rotary yet. I receive 400 kuna a month, which works out to about 80 dollars a month-more then enough.
4. How is school going? What subjects are you studying? The same
ones you started with or have you changed subjects or levels in
subjects? Are you involved in activities outside of the classroom?
School. I have to be honest here and say that the tedium and boredom continues. I am not sure why I bring a bag to school. I am not sure I have written anything down. I am in the process of trying to switch to some sort of dance school, so maybe I can feel as though I am not wasting my time sitting in a classroom (reading-if you need some great books recommended, let me know) all day long. My teachers take no interest in me, in fact, I would be surprised if they knew my name. To be fair, part of my struggle is with the Croatian school system itself, it is rigid beyond belief. One comes into class, sits down, and listens to the teacher talk for 45 minutes. If you are lucky, you might get an oral exam. I must admit, I am disappointed with the way my school situation has worked out, but there is still time for adjustments to be made. My school does not offer any extra-curricular activities, but I continue to take ballet class four times a week. Hopefully by the end of January I will begin to do some English tutoring.
5. Would you say you are happy? How are you healthwise? If you have
had to use it, has your insurance worked?
Certainly, I am happy. Life in Zagreb is my life now. I know that the second half of exchange will melt away before I know it. I am trying my best to enjoy the luxurious life of being an exchange student. Never again in my life will I be able to travel with the ease and freedom that I have experienced this year. Health wise, no complaints. I still marvel at the fact that I haven't been hit by any crazy Croatian tram drivers, they seem to dislike the concept of stopping for pedestrians.
6. Do you think you were well prepared for your exchange year? What
should we have concentrated on in your orientations last year?
Above all, I think it is important for students to have no preconceived notions of how their exchange year is going to unfold. If you expect it to be a certain way, then you are setting yourself up for disaster. The reality is that your exchange year is beyond what you can imagine for yourself. Flexibility is key to survival.
FREE SPACE: (Comments, suggestions, joys, sorrows…..)
Joys: Walking across the River Sava at sunset. Becoming part of another family. Letters from home. Being teased, but more often, kissed, by my Croatian non-English speaking Grandfather. I could go on for pages...
ponedjeljak, 14. siječnja 2008.
Antayla, Turkey
I was lucky enough to visit Antayla, Turkey over my three week Winter Break. My new host family, the Mirić's, took me, and two other exchange students, Chandra, from Colorado, and Bruna, from Brazil.
I am not sure what I was expecting of Turkey-perhaps it is fair to say I had some skewed image from National Geographic pictures, and old memories of Sophomore year Geography class. I was not prepared for the sheer beauty of the country.
Turkey has a varied landscape, there is no real consistency or continuity between one area to the next. There are snow capped mountains, sheltering the sea, and orange groves which go on for miles. There are small towns where people seem not to have schedules, and old men sit outside, smoking cigars and playing cards. There are skyscraper cities, with city buses crowding the streets and bazaars along every street. And of course, there is the Mediterranean Sea, a deep turquoise color, which seems to scream, "come swim!" And, despite the fact that it is January, I was able to go swimming one afternoon. The water was salty, cold, but refreshing. It was such a joy to be away from Zagreb, where I don't think the sun has been seen in several months.
We had perfect weather every day, a breezy sixty degrees. In the sun, about 70 and hot. It is certainly interesting to be a foreigner in Turkey. Especially a blond foreigner. I have never in my life been so blatantly stared at. When we were walking through Antayla, I felt overexposed with my capris and uncovered hair. It was a strange sensation to be on a Turkish bus and see only covered heads in front of me.
We visited the inside of a Mosque, which I had never done before. I liked the atmosphere inside the Mosque, since it is all carpeted, and there are no pews or chairs, it has a feeling on openness; for a child it would be paradise, and entire room with nothing in it. I was struck by the physicality of Muslim prayer, you can see 80 year old men rocking back and forth on their toes, standing up and then bending over in half. Hearing the Call to Prayer during the day was an experience which is difficult to describe accurately. Suddenly, the streets become quiet, and the eerie sound seems to echo from every corner of the city.
Turkey is a country of men. In the town of Myra, I saw about three women, the streets are dominated by groups of men. I felt as though Turkey is in a state of perpetual waiting. People seems to just float from one place to the other, stopping to talk or drink a coffee, or simply to sit on a bench, waiting. Maybe this is only a small town vibe, but I got the impression everyone was waiting for something. There is none of the determined feeling one gets in American cities, heads bowed down, walking fast through the streets, as if always late.
My thoughts were with my friend Lila, who has bravely made a life for herself in the city of Istanbul. Having been to Turkey, I am endlessly impressed that she has forged a life for herself in such a different world.
I look forward to a return trip sometime in the future.
I am not sure what I was expecting of Turkey-perhaps it is fair to say I had some skewed image from National Geographic pictures, and old memories of Sophomore year Geography class. I was not prepared for the sheer beauty of the country.
Turkey has a varied landscape, there is no real consistency or continuity between one area to the next. There are snow capped mountains, sheltering the sea, and orange groves which go on for miles. There are small towns where people seem not to have schedules, and old men sit outside, smoking cigars and playing cards. There are skyscraper cities, with city buses crowding the streets and bazaars along every street. And of course, there is the Mediterranean Sea, a deep turquoise color, which seems to scream, "come swim!" And, despite the fact that it is January, I was able to go swimming one afternoon. The water was salty, cold, but refreshing. It was such a joy to be away from Zagreb, where I don't think the sun has been seen in several months.
We had perfect weather every day, a breezy sixty degrees. In the sun, about 70 and hot. It is certainly interesting to be a foreigner in Turkey. Especially a blond foreigner. I have never in my life been so blatantly stared at. When we were walking through Antayla, I felt overexposed with my capris and uncovered hair. It was a strange sensation to be on a Turkish bus and see only covered heads in front of me.
We visited the inside of a Mosque, which I had never done before. I liked the atmosphere inside the Mosque, since it is all carpeted, and there are no pews or chairs, it has a feeling on openness; for a child it would be paradise, and entire room with nothing in it. I was struck by the physicality of Muslim prayer, you can see 80 year old men rocking back and forth on their toes, standing up and then bending over in half. Hearing the Call to Prayer during the day was an experience which is difficult to describe accurately. Suddenly, the streets become quiet, and the eerie sound seems to echo from every corner of the city.
Turkey is a country of men. In the town of Myra, I saw about three women, the streets are dominated by groups of men. I felt as though Turkey is in a state of perpetual waiting. People seems to just float from one place to the other, stopping to talk or drink a coffee, or simply to sit on a bench, waiting. Maybe this is only a small town vibe, but I got the impression everyone was waiting for something. There is none of the determined feeling one gets in American cities, heads bowed down, walking fast through the streets, as if always late.
My thoughts were with my friend Lila, who has bravely made a life for herself in the city of Istanbul. Having been to Turkey, I am endlessly impressed that she has forged a life for herself in such a different world.
I look forward to a return trip sometime in the future.
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