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Bok.

I thought this might be of some interest; it might be a tad repetitive at some points, but it is the report I had to fill out for Rotary, a summary so to speak. Dobar tek! (This means eat well!)

KELSEY A. LIEBENSON-MORSE

OCTOBER ROTARY REPORT

ZAGREB, CROATIA

10.8.07

1.) How was your travel to your country? Was the travel agency helpful? Who met you at the airport upon your arrival?

The answer to this question should be short, but in my case, I think it might be fair to say everything which could have gone wrong travel wise, went wrong on my journey to Croatia.

To start the trip off, I got all of my cosmetics taken out of my carry on bag. (Entirely my fault, I wasn't aware of the new quantity regulations...) Normally, this wouldn't have bothered me, but when you are in a vulnerable state of mind, this sort of occurrence can be traumatic. Next, I spent five hours waiting in the Boston airport. Again, normally not a problem, but I was so ready and excited to leave, it was torture to be trapped in Massachusetts. I kept checking with the travel agents to make sure I would catch my connecting flight in New York. (I probably asked ten times.) They assured me, numerous times, that I would make it, no problem.

I got into New York around 8:45, even though my flight to Germany was departing at 9. Needless to say, I raced across the entire terminal, (I did feel rather glamorous, like the star in a movie, racing frantically across the airport) but to no avail. I was stranded in New York. I was also suppose to meet up with another Rotary student in order to make the rest of our journey to Croatia together, I was disappointed to have missed her, and frustrated that I had no way to tell her I had missed the flight.

Next commenced my overnight at the JFK Terminal. The Lufthansa agent was extremely unhelpful to me, and seemed not to know or care who or what the Rotary represented. When I told her what had happened, she simply told me she couldn't help, and that I would have to "make my own arrangements." Since it was already about 9:30 at this point, most of the airport was already shut down. This meant I would have to wait until the following day to make arrangements for another flight out of New York. It seemed decidedly risky to attempt a hotel room on my own.

At this point, an angel by the name of Jaclyn Janis rescued me. I was sobbing into a pay phone, (it is difficult when you have mentally prepared yourself for an event, and then have it drastically thwarted) and she cal my asked me "what happened to you?" We spent the night on the floor together, taking turns trying to sleep. She was on her way to South Africa, and had similarly hellish experience. My Mom was able to arrange a new flight for me by calling Lufthansa early in the morning. Sadly, the earliest flight was a mirror flight, so I spent the rest of the day in JFK. At 8:30 the next night, I boarded the plane for Germany.

Open arrival in Frankfurt, I made haste, and raced to my alleged boarding gate, determined to get to Croatia. But alas, I had been given the wrong information, and was at the wrong gate. My flight had already left. Four hours later, cut to Kelsey waiting for her flight to Croatia. It is now the 27th of August. I left Peterborough at about 10 in the morning on the 25th. I had, at this point, resigned myself to making a good first impression with my host family, since I was the picture of a weary traveler, and desperately in need of a shower. Unbelievably, I had managed to keep my level of excitement steady for the past two days, and I was still bursting to arrive in Zagreb.

My first view of the country was out of my sleep deprived eyes, peering out of the tiny plane window. I was struck by the greenness, and rolling hills, of a dark green color which one does not encounter in New Hampshire.

When I stepped of the plane, I was greeted by balmy heat, and approaching twilight. To my right were mountains, appearing purple in the fading light. When I walked inside the airport, I wasn't even expecting to see my luggage. After all of my failed travel plans, I knew my bags wouldn't be there. But I was desperately hoping my host family would be there. I had made several frantic calls from several different locations, hoping the Tuškans would be there when I arrived.

My heart sinking, I was already planning my next move. This was when I heard my name being shouted from somewhere above. Looking up, there was my entire host family (five altogether) shouting and waving. I think I must have fallen into my host Mom Janet's arms, I was so relived and happy to have arrived in Zagreb. When we reached the Tuškan's house, my host grandfather, Aya, (who doesn't speak any English) gently grabbed my face and kissed me, saying in Croatian I was his granddaughter now. This made me hellish flight well worth it.

(My laptop was also stolen out of my suitcase...but hey...such is life.)

2.) What were your first reactions and impressions of your country? How is your host family? What has been the hardest thing (outside of the language) to adapt to?

On my first morning in Zagreb, I awoke to sunshine streaming through my window. I had breakfast outside in the sunlight. My host sister Sara, (12) took me into the city center. I had no idea what to expect of Zagreb, other then what I had read in guidebooks, and looked up online. For a city of almost a million inhabitants, (and the capital of Croatia) the city center is comprised of two small, and manageable main squares. Both feature statues of men on horses. There are beautiful parks between the two squares, complete with well tended flower beds and fountains. Zagreb is an incredibly clean, safe city, with outdoor cafes on every corner. The main activity in Zagreb is to sit at a cafe and drink coffee, so this is what you see the majority of people doing on the average day.

After having been here for over a month, I can truly call Zagreb my city. I can get to and from the center easily and quickly on my own, using public transportation. This is an exciting feat for a girl from the town of Peterborough, population 6, 000. I have yet to see the famed Adriatic coastline that Croatia boasts of, but plan on going in the near future. I have been to parts of Zagorija, which is essentially the Croatian countryside, and also the Plitvice Lakes, one of Croatia's national treasures. (I also visited the town the Tito was born in) Some of the small town in Croatia look like something out a fairytale, with orangey-red terracotta roofs, and white exteriors. On my street, mostly everyone has beautiful and well tended gardens, with gorgeous roses and vegetables in profusion. To say in the least, Croatia is a country with endless sights to offer.

My host family is wonderful; I don't know how to phrase it any another way. I have had an almost seamless transition to life in Croatia, I think, because of the hospitality and warmth I feel from my host family. My nine year old host sister Beka in probably my best friend in Croatia. During about my second week here, she made a card addressed "to my sister." My host mother always introduces me to people as her "daughter for the year," never as a guest or just an exchange student. I am a member of the family. My host father Tomislav is constantly checking on me to make sure I am alright, that I have everything I need. My host mother and I spend lots of time together, mostly in the kitchen. The Tuškans are sociable people, and there is always someone coming in or out of the house. Right now we have a couple staying with us from Holland, and last week we had a man from Turkey over for lunch. In a strange way, I feel as though I have always known the Tuškans, perhaps because I have never felt excluded, or like a guest. Beka did a drawing of her whole family at school, and there I was, my hair scribbled in yellow with a crayon.

I can't say I have struggled with any part of the culture as of yet, minus the language, which was to be expected. One of my favorite aspects of life here is guessing which type of toilet handle a toilet will have. Everyone here thinks it is hilarious we have the same kind on every toilet in America. Go figure.

3.) How many times have you been in contact with your counselor? The club chairman? How many times have you attended Rotary meetings? Other Rotary functions? Are you receiving your allowance?

I have been to two Rotary meetings, and will attend another this month. I have received my allowance, and have met the club president. I am I relatively frequent contact with my counselor Gordana, who I love. We have had one organized trip.

4.) How is school going? Are you able to understand the language enough to survive in school? What subjects are you studying?

Schools in Croatia are much different then schools in America, they are largely still under the influence of Communism. This mean you have seven subjects a day, in which you sit in a chair and listen to the teacher talk. There are no projects, no discussions, and absolutely no essay writing. This had been challenging for me-sitting all day in a classroom would be hard enough, but since I can't understand most of what is being said, it makes it even more frustrating. But it has gotten better as the weeks have passed, and the kids in my class are great, welcoming and sincere. I am understanding more and more, and have time throughout the day to sit down and work with my Croatian. I feel as though lights are starting to go off, I can read signs and recognize words everywhere.